Cocktail Hacker

Have you ever been talking with someone and had them say something along the lines of “Oh, man. You put Jeff and Dave in a room and you’ve got a party.” You know the kind of line I’m talking about. It’s rarely true, very cliche and mostly annoying. Well, get ready for one of my own. When you put Paul Pacult, Dave Wondrich, Andy Seymour, Dale DeGroff, Doug Frost and Steve Olson in a room all kinds of things are going to happen. First, you’re going to laugh, a lot. Second, you’re going to be drinking, and it’ll be damn good stuff. And, third, you’re going to learn more than you can hope to remember about spirits and cocktails, their history, their recipes and how to make and serve them. In short, you’re going to have a damn fine time.

So, why the rambling intro and ass-kissing? In April I was invited to attend the final day of BarSmarts Advanced (BarSmarts Live) as it rolled through Denver. BarSmarts is a two track course of spirits and cocktail education. The first, and primary, track is BarSmarts Advanced. The second, which I’ll highlight later, is BarSmarts Wired. With BarSmarts Advanced, upon enrolling, you’re sent a workbook and a set of professional bar tools. You work through the workbook on your own, reading the modules, watching online videos and taking online quizzes. Once you’ve completed all of that you move on to the final step, BarSmarts Live.

BarSmarts Live is what I got to sit in on. Your day begins with 4 hours of discussion about spirits and cocktails, their history and how to make and serve them right. All of this is led by the impressive team of educators I listed above. You start off with an overview of the spirits industry and current trends. Which brings me to an interesting point. While BarSmarts is a partnership between BAR and PernodRicard it is, in no way, a sales pitch for their products. I think a quote from Steve Olson drove it home for me. “We’ll never tell you what (spirits) to use. We don’t care. That’s your decision.” And that was the theme throughout the spirits portion. It’s not so much about showing you some great options, though they do that, it’s about teaching you what makes them great so you can pick out great spirits for your cocktails.

Following the general spirits discussion, Paul Pacult takes the helm. If you’re ever given the option of enjoying a tasting with Paul, do it. Doesn’t matter how many tastings you’ve been to, you’ll have a great time and you’ll learn a ton. For this tasting we had five, unlabeled glasses sitting in front of us with a small pour of spirits in each. Paul takes you through each glass one by one, only revealing the brands at the very end. The first two spirits are clear (gin and vodka you’ll come to realize) and you’re walked through their profiles. First the aroma, then the flavor. I’m not going to detail the process as it really deserves a post of its own, but suffice it to say it’s simple, thorough and not at all pretentious. Following that intro, you’re left with the other three glasses. Each is filled with a brown spirit and you’re given no hints going in as to what each contains. Through the tasting process you suss out the contents of each and, most importantly, learn why they taste the way they do. So, now that you’ve had a brief, but detailed, intro to spirits tasting, it’s time to move on to cocktails.

Which brings us to the second session, cocktails. Dale DeGroff starts off the session with an overview of bar service and how to make really good cocktails. His experience and passion for the craft comes through in everything he shares and he definitely has strong opinions, most of which I share. In reference to sour mix, “You can’t overpour sour mix. An ounce, two ounces, it doesn’t matter, it all tastes crappy.” Well said. Dale explains each tool in the kit and why they’re important. And, all along the way, Dave Wondrich is chiming in on the history of the tools and passing around vintage examples from his collection. Ever seen an original Hawthorne strainer or know why it’s called that? Neither had I, but I can now say that I have and I do At the end of the cocktails discussion, Dave dives in to his favorite topic for a bit, punch. Giving a brief history of the category and where it’s going currently (big upswing in popularity, if you’re wondering). Then, the best part, he serves some punch which Dave I think described best. “(It’s) subtle and delicious, so it’s moreish…like you want more.”

Dave wrapped up the discussion and demo portion with a quote that rings more true than I think I realized at the time. “As long as the 21st century continues to suck, people will continue to drink.” I couldn’t agree more. But, for the record, I’m going to be drinking whether the century sucks or not. Somebody’s got to, right?

At this point things break up for a tasty lunch and time to chat with your fellow students. This was also time for a final cram session for a lot of folks, because next up was the practical and written exams. The group was divided in half. The first half going first to the written exam, which includes questions about cocktails and spirits as well as a blind tasting portion. Hint, when in doubt go with citrus and pepper, they’re in almost every flavor profile. The second half of the group was further broken down into groups of seven for the practical exam.

The practical is the part that I think would be the most daunting. The reason why? You’re being reviewed by a member of the panel I listed above. These are guys who have been in the cocktail business for years. They’re the allstars of the field. So, how does it work? Like this. You enter the room and you’re sent to one of the prepared stations. Each station has all the spirits, mixers, tools and garnishes you’ll need to make the cocktails you’ve been studying in the workbook. Then the testing begins. Your reviewer gives you three cocktails to make, in the manner that a bar patron would. “I’ll have a Manhattan on the rocks, with a twist and my girl loves sweet drinks so she’ll have a Margarita. My buddy wants, aww crap, what did he say, it’s a highball…ummm…oh yeah, a Gin and Tonic.” At this point you have eight minutes to make these drinks, from memory, to the best of your abilities.

Your task doesn’t end there though. You’re a bartender afterall. You’re supposed to be entertaining as well. So, while you’re being judged on the cocktails you produce you’re also being watched for your banter and overall demeanor. Once the eight minutes is up you leave the testing area and the reviewers sample your drinks and make their final notes. Written exam and practical finished you’re free to be on your way. You’ll find out later whether you passed.

Now that I’ve piqued your interest, a bit of bad news. BarSmarts Advanced is invite only. You can sign up for their mailing list, which might get you on the invite list at some point, but no promises there. Unlike most bits of bad news, this one has a very nice silver lining. You can take the whole BarSmarts program, minus BarSmarts Live, all online via the BarSmarts Wired program. It’s the same course work as Advanced but you don’t get the tools and there is no live day. But, back to the silver lining, for summer 2011 the BarSmarts Wired program is being offered completely free!

So, here’s the long and short of what has become quite a long write up. If you have the opportunity to attend BarSmarts, do it. No questions, no contemplation, just do it. You’ll be a richer (figuratively) cocktail creator as a result. If you’re not on the invitee list or not in one of the cities BarSmarts is passing through, check out BarSmarts Wired. Heck, you might even learn something.

† The product reviewed here was provided to me as a free sample. If you’re wondering what that means check out my sample policy.

Last week I was looking for a new cocktail to try out and stumbled across the Maple Leaf on Anvil’s drink menu. The thought of a whiskey sour sweetened with maple syrup was more than I could pass up. I did a bit of searching around and found the recipe on Bobby Heugel’s site. No coincidence really, Bobby is one of the owners and bartenders at Anvil. First, let’s talk about Bobby’s recipe.

Maple Leaf (Drink Dogma)

2 oz  Bourbon

3/4 oz Maple Syrup

3/4 oz Lemon Juice

1) Combine in a shaker with ice

2) Shake and strain into chilled cocktail glass

This drink has a fantastic combination of flavors. The maple syrup fills in the complexity gap that bitters would fill in a classic whiskey sour. The lemon adds just the right amount of sourness and the bourbon rounds things out. My only complaint about this recipe is that it’s a touch sweet for me. Onward fellow drinkers.

Maple Leaf (Cocktail Hacker)

2 oz  Bourbon

1/2 oz Maple Syrup

3/4 oz Lemon Juice

1) Combine in a shaker with ice

2) Shake and strain into chilled cocktail glass

Now we’re talking. This version has all the complexity of the original with a touch less sweetness. With only 3/4 oz of lemon juice (versus 1 oz in a classic whiskey sour) this drink is more about the bourbon and maple syrup interplay. I’d recommend a good bourbon for this one. I used Bulleit and, as always, enjoyed the extra spiciness from the rye. I think Maker’s Mark 46 would also work tremendously well. The added spice notes would harmonize with the maple syrup. Whatever you choose this drink is well worth mixing up. Thanks for the inspiration, Bobby. Much appreciated!

Seems to me that every old-world country has an herbal tonic (or a dozen) that are purported to cure all that ails you. Becherovka is the Czech Republic’s cure-all. Invented in 1807 by Josef Becher and Christian Frobrig, Becherovka is a blend of herbs, spices, oils, alcohol and the mineral rich water of Karlovy Vary. The herbal liqueur is typically served cold as a digestif, but is also consumed as a home remedy for arthritis.

I can’t speak for Becherovka’s curative properties, but I can speak for its tastiness. Which, I’d imagine, is more important to you anyway. First, a honey-like sweetness hits your palate, though it’s lighter than you’re led to expect by the smell. Clove is definitely the main flavor player, but cardamom, cinnamon and allspice also play key roles. The clove, while the dominant flavor, is not overpowering. Sipping this ice cold after a meal is a treat. Especially in the hot summer a nice cold digestif cools you and finishes out the meal in what feels like a very sophisticated manner.

But, what of cocktails? I didn’t go crazy with this one, but I did try a couple experiments. First, I found that it blends tremendously well with a cup of hot tea. Don’t go overboard, add only an ounce to a cup of tea and the herbal and spice flavors really play well with the tea. Following that, I decided to try one of Becherovka’s signature drinks, the Beton. A Beton is Becherovka and tonic. It seems simple, and it is, but the flavors are far more complex than the recipe. The citric and bitter notes of the tonic work really well with the sweetness and spice of the liqueur. I like to keep the ratio fairly low at 3:1 tonic to Becherovka. By not overdilluting you allow the liqueur to stay front and center. The drink is complex, but refreshing. I’d definitely drink this again.

Na zdraví!

† The product reviewed here was provided to me as a free sample. If you’re wondering what that means check out my sample policy.

When I first opened the package of Agwa de Bolivia and started reading the materials I felt like I should be keeping an eye out for the DEA. Agwa is made from coca leaves (yeah, like the ones that make cocaine) that are picked in Bolivia and transported, under armed guard, to Amsterdam. Once there, the leaves have their cocaine removed and the leaves are then distilled into Agwa liqueur.

So, what does 40 grams of coca leaves per bottle taste like? Kinda herbal, not surprisingly. I’d describe the flavor as a mix of green tea and mint. The flavor is light and quite refreshing. The color is bright lime green and the aroma is vegetal and herbal. The flavor is this liqueur is definitely unique. Wanting to make a cocktail with it I decided to give it a try in a mojito.

Agwa Mojito (Cocktail Hacker)

1 oz White Rum

1 oz Agwa de Bolivia

1/2 Lime, Quartered

6-8 Mint Leaves

Soda Water

1) Muddle the lime and mint leaves

2) Add the Agwa and rum

3) Top with soda water

The herbal and mint flavors of the Agwa combine very well with the muddled fresh mint resulting in a refreshing and complex cocktail. In addition to the flavor, the green color of this drink is striking. An interesting twist on a classic that I’d try again if for no other reason than the story. If you’re interested in something simpler you can drink this as a shot. Bite a slice of lime then drink the Agwa. I’m not a big shot person but this combo was pretty good.

So, there you have it. If you’d like to change up your coca intake or start a new habit, Agwa has you covered.

† The product reviewed here was provided to me as a free sample. If you’re wondering what that means check out my sample policy.

I’ve never been sailing, never been to Bermuda and, at least to my knowledge, am not the slightest bit royal. What I am is deeply enamored with this cocktail. As I’ve said before I can always tell when I really like a cocktail because I keep wanting to make it for myself. The wanting part of that sentence being the key. I’ll try recipe after recipe for cocktails I don’t much like, just in case there might be a diamond in the rough. This one, like a few of my other favorites before it, I mix willingly and with a great sense of eagerness.

I didn’t stray far from the proverbial cocktail nest with this drink. The recipe I found in Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails but it originally dates back to the Bartenders Guide by Trader Vic. Whom, you’ll likely note, is the very same who’s known for a host of delightful Tiki drinks. Dr. Cocktail notes that this is an “early example of Trader Vic’s burgeoning tropics-oriented (but yet to be Tiki) repertoire.” I would agree whole-heartedly. This drink includes falernum, a classic Tiki syrup, but keeps it simple and elegant. There are a couple other recipes that I found, but they really only vary slightly. For example, the Difford’s recipe ups the rum to 2 1/2 oz but leaves everything else the same.

Royal Bermuda Yacht Club Cocktail (Cocktail Hacker)

2 oz Barbados Rum

3/4 oz Lime Juice

1 tsp Cointreau

2 tsp Falernum



1) Combine in a shaker with ice

2) Shake and strain into chilled cocktail glass

Despite the other slight variations I found, this recipe really doesn’t need modification at all. I only changed the original a tiny bit, altering 2 dashes to 1 tsp for the Cointreau simply to make it easier to mix. For the rum, I find it a bit odd that a cocktail for the Royal Bermuda Yacht Club uses Barbados rum but, hey whatever. I personally opted for Montanya Platino. It’s a white rum made here in Colorado that I really like. The resulting cocktail is lightly sweet with awesome spiciness from the Falernum. Here’s a quote from my tasting notes that really sums it up nicely. “I just want to keep drinking.”

To see how a Barbados rum would change the cocktail I used the only one I have on hand. Namely, Mount Gay Extra Old. This rum is fantastic, but the cocktail it produces is more focused on the flavors of the rum . I didn’t like this version as much as the white rum version, but I certainly wouldn’t refuse to drink it either.

Finally, falernum. I used my homemade stuff, but you could easily use commercial offerings as well. The only caveat to keep in mind is that each Falernum will have a slightly different flavor profile so you may need to tweak the ratio a bit to get it to your liking.